Springtime Schooner building

 

So here's some pictures of work over the winter up to now.  I didn't much feel like making posts about lately so I'm just kind of throwing together all the photos I took.  A lot of this is out of order.

I still haven't settled on a name.  Maybe by the next time I'll have one.

 

Setting the mast rake here.  I've read that a two masted ship should have the masts slightly out of parralel widening skyward.  Apparently this arrangement is more pleasing aesthetically.  Main mast is 6 degrees fore-mast is 5degrees.

Here's the fore section of the sail winch all coated and with the main winch line strung.  You can see the foremast step in the center on the keel.

Here's the sheet tubes being run.  These guide the sheets from the winch line up through the deck without introducing any sharp angles.  I used 1/4 icemaker line that I found at ScrapsKC.

Here's the compartment with a nylon strap to retain the receiver.  Placement on the bullkhead hopefully will keep the electronics dry and happy.

Here's the battery box I built with a switch.  It's held down with a bit of elastic strap sewn into the cover.

This is another view of the fore section of the winch looking through a hatch.

The bowsprit has been carved and is being test-fit.  This is the second bowsprit I made as I made the first one to the wrong length for the gaff sail plan. 

The deck removed for winch line installation

One of the 18 handmade blocks made entirely of 110+ year old Douglas fir salvaged from my house.  I tested each with a 4 lb lead weight to be sure they'd not fail while at sea.

This is the jig and a partially cut block

Fitting and carving the masts

just making a mess

The rudder needs a solid core.  I braised this bit out of 1/4 and 1/8 inch round brass bar stock and some lead free solder.  I'm happy with how nice this came out.

setting up for threading

bar stock work

here's a block before being painted with poly

masts are in place.  I think the rake was 7 degrees here, a bit more rakish than what I settled on later

rudder core threaded with 1/4 x 20 threads for the servo horn.

Tonight I finally attached the deck permanently.  This is a huge step.  No going back now.

The masking tape should provide nice clean lines between paint and brightwork

The through-deck fairleads are wooden beads I also found at ScrapsKC

Deck epoxy fillets in place and curing

next step gunnels and standing rigging, or maybe carving booms and gaffs.